Ikkat - A Tradition of Finesse and Craftsmanship

Although several traditional Odishan sarees are used during
weddings; Ikkat as well as Nuapatni sarees are very popular among modern
brides. These designs originate from Bargarh and are available in a wide
variety of colors. They can indeed become a beautiful part of any bridal
trousseau. The
Ikat technique allows the weaver to prepare precisely the pattern of colors on
the finished fabric by wrapping sections of the yarn with rubber strips before
dipping it in select dyes. The rubber strips used for tying are a modern
innovation replacing the traditional method of tying with coarse cotton thread.
Bindings or substances resisting dye penetration are applied over the fibres in
pre-determined patterns and then the threads are dyed.

Alteration of
bindings and using more than one colour for dyeing produces a multi-coloured
thread effect. Removal of bindings and subsequent weaving of the threads would
form the desired pattern woven in the fabric. The determining characteristic of
ikat is the dyeing of patterns, by means of bindings, on the threads prior to
weaving of the fabric. More the precision in the application of the resist
bindings, finer would be the pattern formed.

Ikkat is
classified into single ikkat sarees and double-ikat styles. Single Ikat fabric are
created by interweaving tied and dyed warp with plain weft, or resisted weft
yarns is inserted in plain weft. Double ikat involves the process of resisting
on both warp and weft and then interlacing them to form intricate yet well
composed patterns.online sarees shopping 

In warp ikat the
dyeing of the threads would be of the warp (lengthwise lay of threads) across
which the plain weft (breadth wise feed of thread across the warp) is led
through. In weft ikat it would be vice versa. In double ikat both warp threads
and weft threads would be dyed separately and then woven together.

In warp ikat the
patterns are evident on the warp lay even before the weft is introduced. Ikat
created by dyeing the warp is simple as compared to the making of either weft
ikat or double ikat.

Patterns can be formed
vertically, horizontally or diagonally. Weft ikat is preferred when it is the
overall picture that is important, not the precision of the patterns. Double
ikkat is even rarer and an example is the Patan Patola of Gujarat. Less
accurate or poor imitation double ikkat versions are available in the market.

The artistic
excellence of ikat prints can be gauged from its traditional motifs of flowers,
dancing girl, creepers, leafs, parrot, animals, birds, mythological characters
and geometrical patterns. Most of the ikkat printed sarees have repeated
geometrical patterns of diamonds, circles, squares, lines etc.